Kaffer in need of guidance!!

[Madzia]

To capture the emotions on the face you have to observe whole face and how muscle change. Easy to say, but it's hard to catch it xD When human smile, cheeks squash, lifting lower eyelid and lifting nostrils. Whole face is smiling. You can say what someone is feeling looking only on one part of the face for example eyes. Eyes alone could smile, so it's important to capture movement in muscle on a whole face.
In my opinion it's nothing wrong in picking references with makeup, at the end of the day when you're drawing woman you probably want to draw attractive one xD